September 28, 2013

Interview with a Fit Model

Recently, I met a plus-size bra fit model and I had the bright idea to interview her for another perspective on the enigma that is bras. As the appointed evening grew closer, I began to second guess myself wondering what this human mannequin* could know or say that would help the average Jane. But I figured how bad could it be if I got to wear a suit and there were manhattans involved.

Ever wonder how a garment’s size is determined before it makes its way into stores? A fit model is a human that designers and manufacturers build that garment on. Her specs are considered the perfect starting point to then grade up and down into more sizes.

It turns out I happened upon a formidable industry resource. Megan began as a plus-size photo model. It was instantly apparent that since none of the clothing she was modeling needed to be fitted, she was the perfect size. Her agency suggested she try her hand at being a fit model for clothing, which then moved into being a bra fit model.

“ A YOUNG DESIGNER DOESN’T KNOW AS MUCH AS AN OLD FIT MODEL”

— Megan

The base for a ‘straight size’ bra is 34 in cups B, D & DD. The base for a full-figured bra is 40DD, of which Megan is. She can fit up 50-60 bras in an hour. She is well-versed in the 15 key measurements of what makes a great fitting bra. Specs you may have never considered like apex to apex, cross-cup circumference, strap length front & back, strap platform, halter measurement (from apex behind neck to apex) and more. And she knows, just by putting a bra on, what changes need to be made to accomplish a great fit.

I asked Megan how her experience in fitting could help a regular bra shopper. Her answers were beyond perfect:

There is nothing wrong with you. (This is worth repeating: There is nothing wrong with you). If a bra doesn’t fit, it could mean the model bra was built on a body with a different shape than yours. Relax. (Her words, not mine). If you have a bra you like, explore other styles from the same brand, since all bras will be fit on the same model.

Fit bra band first. Cup size and band size are codependent. A 36C in one brand is a 34D in another. Band provides majority of support. Fit that first.

Take care of your underwear. Invest in a few quality pieces and baby them. No washer or dryer. They will last you a long time.

Fluctuations in your shape will happen. Get over it. There is nothing wrong with you. Buy bra on middle hook to allow for fluctuations.

When trying on bras, try many. Raise your arms, take a deep breath, touch your toes, walk and move about. Check for bounce. You should be comfortable AND stable.

Wise words from a woman who knows. I am grateful to Megan for sharing her wealth of knowledge and depth of experience with us. Be as compassionate with yourself as with your loved ones. One of my favorite subjects of Humans Of New York said “Don’t try to be someone else’s beautiful”. I couldn’t agree more.

September 19, 2013

In Defense of Cut & Sew

by John Festa

On May 31st of this year, the New York Times wrote a piece on a new bra sizing system developed by Jockey. I applaud Jockey in their effort and innovation in the area of bra fit. But what struck me most was the 427 comments left by readers in a matter of hours. Bra fitting remains an enigma and a source of anxiety for many women.

For a variety of reasons, it seems many women's self-images are dependent upon and expressed through their bra issues. Now I am not a psychologist but I do have my PhDoubleD in bras and bra fitting. But we'll save that analysis for another post.

One thread running through the Times article many comments was the molded cup bra and its shortcomings. They are referring to the shaped-foam lining to many seamless bras. A smooth, seamless look, like the ubiquitous T-shirt bra, has driven the molded cup to be hugely popular.

To be accurate, molded refers to the process of placing fabric over a heated bell-shaped mold to create a cup shape without seams. It doesn't really have to do with the foam lining. But since the populist nomenclature for foam-lined cups is molded, I'm down with that.

Foam-lined cups are terrific and can be very useful with many different applications. But, being rigid, can create an artificial shape to a bust line. You are wearing two cones on your chest, which, if they do not fit the specs of your body perfectly, can throw off proportion in numerous ways, and at times create the shape of a coconut shell bra.

An oft-overlooked option is a bra that is cut and sewn. Cut and sew is a manufacturing term for fabric cut according to a pattern and sewn together. These bras can be quickly dismissed because they have seams in the cup which wearers fear will show through clothes. But it is these very seams which can enhance your shape, even more than a foam cup.

Seams create structure and lift. And when seams are sewn, the thread used is not pulled taut, but rather left with some ease. Ease is, in fact, a real manufacturing term used for draping and sewing. Love that term. Ease. It is this ease, both in the fabric and the sewing, that allows the cup to support your breast and mold to it at the same time. Quite a feat. The best you. Voila.

Consider cut & sewn bras for your wardrobe. They are sexy and fantastically functional. It is not a secret you're wearing a bra. It need not be invisible. Be aware that some thin knits can be hard to wear in general. Taste level is more important than a seam or two.

"The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their dreams"

--Eleanor Roosevelt

August 23, 2013

Anything Goes

by John Festa

'Anything Goes' was first published on Lingerie Briefs

In olden days, a glimpse of stocking was looked on as something shocking, but now heaven knows, anything goes.

So wrote Cole Porter in 1934. And it seems ever more appropriate when we consider the exposed bra trend.

What once was edgy and daring now seems commonplace and thoughtless. Are exposed bra straps and bra bands simply acceptable now?

Does this trend speak to a woman's owning her sexuality, being comfortable in her skin, flying in the face of convention or simple laziness?

The answer lies in

INTENTION

It seems that if the exposed bra is a forethought, planned with the final look in mind, it can work. But the part that I am missing, and, ladies, please enlighten me on this: To my eye, It never seems to enhance the end product of dressing. I have yet to see an outfit look better because the bra was showing. I see it as emblematic of a low taste level. Something young people do. Someone not schooled. An act of rebellion perhaps. Again, show me the flaws in my thinking.

The world has raged against the saggy pants trend, where young men are wearing their jeans below their derrierres, leaving their skivvies on display. There has even been legislation against this in various municipalities. How is exposing your bra different?

To my mind, the edge of a pretty bra cup exposed in a low neckline is far more daring, confident, 'woman'. A man-tailored shirt with perhaps one too many buttons open or a low neckline on a dress or sweater. This is where the goods are, after all. The goods are the goods, but more interesting than seeing an elastic strap or synthetic fiber band. Embracing your sexuality and freedom does not mean running around in your underwear. It means presenting yourself in a way that graces the world and acknowledges your beauty. In doing so, you acknowledge that the universe is beautiful.

you are the gift. wrap yourself nicely. ™

July 13, 2013

Let Something Slip

by John Festa

Recently I was with a very good friend who was wearing a skirt. While I would never be this crass with a stranger, I said 'Diane, you need a slip with that skirt'. She replied by saying she never wears slips. Me: 'Doesn't the fact that I know you're not wearing one mean you need one?'

Now I know many women are wearing these cute summer dresses to stay cool in this oppressive heat we've been having. And adding another layer would defeat that purpose. But I would like to think that it is not your intention to display your triangle of love at the slightest of breezes.

It seems that slips have slipped away from good dressing. Many manufacturers have stopped making them due to lack of interest. Many of the stores I sell to do not carry them any longer. While searching for slip images on the internet, most postings referred to days gone by a la Mad Men or what 'my mother used to make me wear'.

The slip serves many purposes. It helps the dress or skirt hang smoothly and not settle between the legs. It can help block any transparency or translucency. It protects the outer garment from perspiration, and the wearer from any chafing. And, not the least of which, they are sexy as hell. They are the glorious, regal domain of womanhood.

Many years ago, my best friend Nancy and I were going to Studio 54, as we did every week (Thursday & Sunday -- never the weekend). She chose to wear a black slip and some sky-high strappy heels. A young man approached and opened with: "Are you wearing a slip?". They were married shortly thereafter and have a beautiful son, now in his 20's.

True story.

How you put yourself together communicates to the world who you are -- or more accurately: who you think you are. That's why there are costume designers in movies set in the present with characters wearing only t-shirts and jeans. We, the audience, collect information about these characters by their dress. One of my favorite quotes is from the inimitable Oscar Wilde:

"It is only shallow people who do not judge by appearances"

You are the gift. Wrap yourself nicely. ™